(23 Dec. 86) The chopper lifted off from Meck Island heading north, then made a sharp left toward Eniwetak , the only island inside the eastern reef. We passed by Kwadack island on our right and Eniwetak’s northern tip on our left. We lined up with the helipad on the south end and dropped down. The boat landing was just a few feet away. This place has a dense growth of tall trees the length of the narrow island with a large contingent of black birds keeping watch from above. We made the 600 yard walk to the north end on a sandy road. On our right I could see Meck to the east, perhaps a mile away. It was quieter here since we were surrounded by the lagoon breaking gently on all sides. A silver mobile home awaited us at the north end, on the edge of a dropoff. On the right were a BC-4 ballistic camera and optics.
Hiram Airam is my constable. We stowed our gear and sat down in the living room as Airam informed me of some things to be aware of. On the way up I noticed lines of large ants moving across the island, in the sand, on tree roots and leaves. Always on the move, even inside our shelter, climbing over the furniture and me. I spent my first minutes inside stepping on ants with my boots. There must be a billion ants on this island, give or take a hundred million.
It’s two days before Christmas and Airam told me that President Kabua was on Ebeye Friday, giving out rent payment checks to the landowners. Airam said he received a nice-sized check.
I spent a couple of hours walking around the beach and through the woods, checking things out. The beach was nice, completely surrounding the island. Coconut palms curved out over the sand as I started out on the northwest side. The sun was bright and the water a clear light blue. I saw a white heron on a downed tree limb surveying its surroundings. At the south end I noticed some new fish. There were two, about a pound each, dark grey with a sweeping red line on each side. I continued on the east side beach, headed back north. Halfway up there is an eight foot section from the rear end of a missile on the beach. It’s probably from an ABM (anti ballistic missile) used in testing from Meck Island. Heavily forested Kwadack Island just north of Eniwetak could have been utilized by Russian forces during past tests, using mini-underwater craft passing through Eniwetak Passage (channel) on the north side of Meck.
I met Airam on the north end where he told me there is a home in the middle of Kwadack Island and someone lived there before the United States took over the mid-corridor lagoon for missile tests. The owner gets a rent check from Uncle Sam but like others I’ve talked to, I’m sure he would rather have his home again. I asked Airam to take a photo of me so I could have some proof that I was here.
0200 – I decided to walk down to the boat landing and check out the night life. The night was as black as a dark room. I could develop film here. The beam from my flashlight was clear and bright down to the circle on the ground. Outside the narrow light there was deep black space. I could hear birds flying past me but saw nothing. I decided it wasn’t worth the effort so I turned around and headed for that single light on the security trailer.
0400 – It’s now the day before Christmas and the ants have decided to come inside and establish new roadways. They crawled up my legs, on my shoulders, in my hair. By daylight there must have been thousands of the little pests lying dead on the floor, trampled by my boots. I swept them out the door.
1800 – Back at Kwajalein all the stores and other services were closed. Most of the island residents had flown home for Christmas. I had nothing to do Christmas Eve and I decided to work out. I ran a couple of miles at a fast pace. Frank was on mobile patrol in the downtown section and road along side in his Dodge Rampage. He clocked me at 15 mph. I pumped some iron in the weight room, then returned to my room.
I ate a pint of rum and raisin ice cream, had a Pepsi mixed with Jim Beam, then went to sleep. And that’s how I spent Christmas Eve.
Filed under: Almost Paradise Volume 2
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